Pitmaster potato salad

Place large potatoes on hot coals, spaced evenly; move coals around so the potatoes get heat from all sides.

Cook about six or seven minutes on the first side, turn and give the other side about the same, then keep turning and moving them; time depends on size.

Char until the outsides are nearly black and the insides tender to a skewer or knife tip; pull smaller ones off first.

Transfer to a bowl, cover with foil and let steam until cooled to room temperature; refrigerate overnight.

For the dressing, combine Dijon mustard, cider vinegar, a little rice vinegar and neutral oil; season with a generous amount of kosher salt, black pepper and a few shakes of cayenne; whisk to a temporary emulsion, whisking again before use if made ahead.

Scrape the charred skin off with the edge of a knife, slicing off any deeply charred spots without cutting deep; some dark bits may stay.

Cut each potato in half, then quarters, then slice across into uniform pieces; taste a piece before dressing.

Add the potatoes to the vinaigrette with finely diced red onion, diced celery, finely diced dill pickle and fire-roasted red pepper; mix.

Cover and refrigerate at least 2 or 3 hours, or better overnight (about 6 hours here).

Mix, taste, add more salt as needed and a whole bunch of snipped chives; mix again.

Transfer to a serving bowl and top with a little more chive or green onion.