Pizza bianca

Combine all-purpose flour, semolina, a small amount of yeast and salt; stir to distribute.

Add the water and stir to combine into a very sticky dough.

Move to a lidded container drizzled with olive oil on the base and sides; cover. The dough gets two folds over a couple of hours.

Rest before the first fold ('set a three minute timer or so', as transcribed).

Fold in the container: stretch the outside of the dough and press into the center, working around until tensioned; turn seam side down.

Rest one to two hours, covered, in a comfortable spot.

Give a second fold the same way, seam side down, lid on.

Refrigerate 12 to 24 hours; it keeps rising and develops flavor.

Turn out onto a well-floured surface without being aggressive, to keep the structure from the long rise.

Divide into two even pieces, shape each into a rectangle and letter-fold twice, touching only the floured side.

Set seam side down on a bed of semolina with space between, cover, and rest an hour and a half to two hours.

With the oven and baking stone preheated, sprinkle semolina generously on top.

Dimple firmly with the fingers, into but not through the dough.

Lift and gently elongate onto parchment to about 16 inches long and 5 inches wide; dimple again along the length and lift with a flat hand, not fingertips.

Drizzle about a tablespoon of olive oil over each and sprinkle with coarse salt.

Bake on the hot stone.

Brush with a little olive oil as soon as they are out; let cool before slicing so they finish crisp. Bake darker in winter, lighter in humid summer.