Pizza dough for Neapolitan and Roman pizza

Mix the flour, salt and dry yeast together in the stand mixer bowl.

Knead on medium, adding the cold water a little at a time; add extra virgin olive oil partway through for the Roman version.

Speed up and mix until the dough comes clean off the bowl, about five minutes.

Knead by hand with the palms, pushing forward and back, then reinforce into a round.

Cover and rest 20 minutes to half an hour at room temperature before the fridge.

Oil the plastic container, place the balls inside and close it; use a container big enough for the dough to at least double.

Ferment in the fridge 16 to 24 hours, or keep at room temperature to bake the same day.

Weigh Neapolitan balls at 250 grams, between 250 and 270, and Roman balls at 180 grams.

Take Neapolitan balls out of the fridge four hours before stretching; Roman balls one hour before.

Season the passata with about a tablespoon of salt.

Cut the fresh mozzarella into small cubes, drain it in a colander and return it to the fridge so the pizza does not go soggy.

Variation, Roman: press the dough flat from the edges first, then the middle, and stretch by hand or with a rolling pin.

Spread tomato sauce over the Roman base including the edges, and oil the edges.

Part-bake the Roman pizza with no cheese at 300 to 320 degrees Celsius, turning it to face the flame; it takes about three minutes.

Add mozzarella and pecorino and a touch of olive oil and return to the oven until the cheese melts; three to three and a half minutes total.

Variation, Neapolitan: stretch the ball on fine semolina, pressing from the middle outwards and never touching the edges, so the gases move into the crust.

Sauce the Neapolitan without touching the edges, lay basil down first, then cover it with pecorino and mozzarella, and be generous with the extra virgin olive oil.

Bake the Neapolitan at 400 degrees Celsius for about 90 seconds.

Finish with fresh basil and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.