Pizza sauce

Pull the fresh oregano leaves off the stems and chop them.

Put the olive oil and anchovy fillets in a saucepan over medium-low heat until the anchovy sizzles.

Add the finely minced garlic and cook about 60 seconds without browning it.

Turn the heat as low as it goes, stir in the fresh oregano and cook a couple of minutes, then add the red chili flakes and the dry oregano.

Crush the San Marzano tomatoes to a puree by hand in a bowl and add them to the pan, raising the heat to medium.

Stir in salt, a little sugar and black pepper, bring to a simmer and simmer about 35 to 40 minutes.

Stir in a very tiny pinch of baking soda, which foams up and mellows the acidity, then taste and adjust.