Pizza tlayuda: crisp flour-tortilla pizza with refried black beans, crispy pork butter and Brussels sprout leaves

Optional crispy pork butter: cut up a pound of pork shoulder and cook over medium-high with a little oil, stirring, until it simmers in its own juices.

Reduce to low and cook, stirring occasionally, about an hour to an hour and a half, until the pieces are crisp; transfer to a bowl with all the rendered fat.

Cool, wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Chop on a cutting board for about five minutes to a fairly fine paste.

Mix in soft butter (lard in Oaxaca), salt and black pepper; refrigerate until needed.

Refried black beans: saute sliced green onion and minced garlic with a pinch of salt in a little avocado oil in a saucepan on medium about a minute.

Add cumin, black pepper and ancho chili powder and saute about 30 seconds to wake up the spices.

Add cold water, one can of drained but not rinsed black beans, the rest of the salt, Mexican oregano, a few shakes of cayenne and a heaping spoon of the pork butter.

Bring to a simmer and cook about five minutes.

Mash with a potato masher until fairly smooth, then simmer another five minutes or so; keep it thin and spreadable, as it thickens on cooling.

Off the heat, squeeze in the juice of one lime; taste for seasoning.

Coat a large flour tortilla on both sides with a generous spoon of avocado oil in a skillet over medium heat; cook a few minutes per side until golden brown and starting to crisp.

Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan and spread the beans almost to the edge.

Top with a couple ounces of grated Monterey Jack, Brussels sprout leaves (small ones whole, larger torn in half) and sliced green onions; drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle a big pinch of salt.

Bake in the center of a 450 degree oven about 10 minutes, until the crust is crisp, the cheese melted and the leaf edges charred.

Move to a cooling rack and rest at least five minutes.

Garnish with torn orach leaves, thinly sliced radishes, a drizzle of fermented hot chili sauce and micro cilantro; cut into four pieces.

Variation: skip the pork butter for a vegetarian version, or use canned refried beans.