Plain French bread (baguette and two batards), from Mastering the Art of French Cooking vol. 2

Add the yeast to warm water at 110 to 115F and leave a few minutes to activate.

Mix the bread flour and salt in a stand mixer; stream in the tepid water and the yeast and mix on low about a minute.

Knead with the dough hook until slightly sticky, smooth and elastic, planned for five minutes, taking 10.

Transfer to an oiled steep-sided bowl, fold over a few times, cover with plastic wrap and a folded towel and rise in a draft-free place, 3 to 5 hours, until about three and a half times its size.

Turn out; if damp sprinkle with a tablespoon of flour. Flatten into a circle, fold the near, left and right sides over, tuck the near side under, pinch out gas bubbles, return to the oiled bowl, cover and rise again about two hours.

Turn onto a floured surface, divide into three equal pieces, fold each in half, cover loosely with greased plastic and rest 5 minutes to relax the gluten.

Shape each: flatten to an oval, fold lengthwise and seal with the thumb, flatten again, fold and seal with the heel of the hand, then roll back and forth from the middle outwards to lengthen, one to 24 inches and two to 16 inches.

Rest seam side up on a floured cloth with ridges between loaves, confined on the sides, covered with plastic, 1.5 to 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 450F. Transfer the loaves to a lightly buttered baking sheet and straighten them.

Slash the tops about an inch deep with a sharp blade and brush the surface with water.

Bake 25 minutes.

Variation (second attempt): flour the surface amply, roll tighter loaves, transfer with a wooden board, slash three times, and pour boiling water into a cast iron pan in the oven for steam before baking.