Pollo asado (Mexican grilled chicken)

Squeeze the orange and the two limes into a bowl.

Add the olive oil, garlic paste, smoked paprika, cumin, oregano, white vinegar, kosher salt and pepper; mix. Save back some marinade for basting.

Remove the backbone with kitchen shears, working on a paper towel so the bird does not slip; save the backbone for stock.

Cut the chicken in half through the breastbone; optionally cut off the wing tips where the bones meet.

Make a few small cuts in the meat so the marinade sinks in.

Put each half in a zip-top bag, add marinade and coat all over. Refrigerate one to three hours, no more than about four, turning now and then.

Grill over medium-low heat, relatively low and slow, about five or six minutes before the first flip.

Spray the grill lightly so it does not stick, flip, and brush the cooked side with the saved-back marinade only once it is cooked.

Keep flipping and brushing every five minutes or so, swapping positions since one side of the grill runs hotter, about ten more minutes to finish.

Brush with the sauce once more off the grill and serve.