Popplers (breaded fried shrimp)

Dry brine the shrimp in one tablespoon kosher salt to one teaspoon baking soda; toss and refrigerate 30 minutes to one hour.

Bare flour and egg breading: flour with a pinch of baking powder, then egg beaten with salt and flour, then back to the flour, pressing it on.

Fry in canola oil at 375F, ideally 30 seconds to one minute; the flour and egg breading took almost three minutes to brown.

Homemade breadcrumbs: crust and cube four slices of white bread, spread on a rimmed baking sheet and dry in a 200F oven about two hours, cool completely and process.

Bread in flour, then egg, then the homemade crumbs, and fry about 30 seconds to golden brown.

Panko approximation: process the white bread while still fresh for a larger crumb, then dry at 200F about two hours, shuffling every 30 minutes.

Bread in flour, egg then the panko-style crumb and fry 30 seconds.

Variation, coconut: whisk flour, cayenne and baking powder; in a separate bowl combine beer, egg, coconut milk and lime zest, then whisk in the dry until just combined, lumps are fine.

Variation, coconut: dredge in flour, then batter, then a fifty-fifty mix of panko and processed coconut, then fry 30 seconds to one minute.

Variation, beer batter: combine flour, cornstarch, salt and baking powder, whisk, then add beer slowly to a paint-like consistency; dredge in flour, then batter, then straight into the fryer.

Variation, tempura: whisk cornstarch, flour, egg and sparkling water, keeping everything cold, and fry immediately; coat in flour, then batter, then fry.

Hybrid breading: combine store-bought panko, processed coconut, crushed cornflakes, store-bought breadcrumbs, flour and cornstarch in equal proportions except the cornstarch at half portion.

Toss the shrimp in flour, shake off the excess, coat thoroughly in the coconut lime zest batter, then in the hybrid crumb mix, and fry about 60 seconds.

Hold the finished batches warm in a 200F oven, then pile them high in a bowl and serve with the dipping sauces.