Pork belly porchetta with Italian salsa verde, and a porchetta sandwich

Roll the belly up as a test and score the skin where it goes inside the roll; remove the excess skin there so all the remaining skin is exposed.

Score the meat side deeply in a crosshatch, cuts about two inches apart and an inch deep; trim the edges into a rectangle.

Season the meat side with grated nutmeg, orange zest, sage, rosemary, fennel fronds, toasted pine nuts pressed into the crevices, kosher salt, black pepper, chili flakes and the crushed garlic; spread and pat it down evenly.

Roll up as tightly as possible.

Score the skin all over with many shallow lateral cuts through the skin but not deep into the fat, so the fat renders and the skin crisps.

Tie tightly at two or three inch intervals. Set on a rack in a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered overnight to dry the skin.

Preheat the oven to about 250, line the sheet with foil, insert a probe into the thickest part and roast low and slow 3 to 8 hours, depending on size, to an internal 160F.

Raise the oven to 500F and roast about 20 minutes, watching that it does not burn, until crisp and mahogany.

Rest at least half an hour, then carve.

Variation (sandwich): slice cold leftover porchetta thinly, stack on focaccia, spread with salsa verde, add arugula, secure with skewers and cut.

Salsa verde: pulse the parsley, lemon zest and juice, capers, white wine vinegar, anchovies, garlic, olive oil, chili flakes, salt and pepper a few times until chopped but still chunky; taste and adjust.