Pork lomitos tacos

Season the cubed pork, then sear it in fresh lard over medium-high to high heat in a single uncrowded layer, about eight or ten minutes, until well browned on two sides; remove.

Brown the onion, cut in about half-inch slices so it does not cook away, over fairly high heat, stirring, a few minutes until deep golden brown.

Drain the liquid from the can of fire-roasted tomatoes and blend them to a coarse puree, leaving some texture.

Add the chopped garlic and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom; cook until aromatic.

Pour in the tomato puree; add the little dried chilies, broken open and shaken free of seeds.

Stir the browned pork back in and nestle a big sprig of epazote on top.

Variation: cook in a big Dutch oven in a 325 degree oven, about two and a half hours.

Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal salt (1 of table salt) and stir.

Cook in the slow cooker on high for four hours, until fall-apart tender.

Chop hard-boiled eggs with a sprinkle of salt.

Taste the lomitos for salt. Build tacos on a couple of warm tortillas: fried black beans, lomitos with sauce, chopped egg, pickled red onions.