Pork picnic sandwich

Combine three quarters of a cup each of dark brown and white sugar, a quarter cup of garlic powder, half a cup of sweet American paprika, two tablespoons of ground ginger, two tablespoons of onion powder, two teaspoons of rosemary powder and two tablespoons of freshly ground black pepper to make the Memphis Dust rub, which deliberately contains no salt.

Remove any large pieces of excess fat and coat the pork generously on all sides with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Let it sit overnight in the fridge to dry brine, which both flavours the meat and helps moisture retention.

The Alabama and South Carolina pork go to the smoker wearing nothing but salt and pepper. The Memphis style gets a generous rubdown with the Memphis Dust, patting the pork with a little water to help it adhere if necessary. All go into the fridge overnight.

Whisk together a cup and a half of white distilled vinegar, a tablespoon of salt, two teaspoons of crushed red pepper, a tablespoon of sugar and a few dashes of hot sauce for the South Carolina mop sauce.

Preheat the smoker to 225 degrees Fahrenheit using a mixture of hickory, maple and cherry wood and smoke for 16 hours, mopping the South Carolina pork about every hour.

Rest the pork under cover of foil for about 45 minutes.

For the Kansas City sauce, saute half a small grated onion and two grated garlic cloves in vegetable oil until they sweat, add a tablespoon of chili powder and toast about 30 seconds.

Add about half a cup of ketchup, half a cup of yellow ballpark mustard, two to two and a half tablespoons of apple cider vinegar, a tablespoon each of blackstrap molasses, Worcestershire and honey, half a cup of light brown sugar, a few dashes of hot sauce and a few pinches of the dry rub.

Bring to a simmer and cook about 15 minutes until thick, adjusting with vinegar, hot sauce and ketchup if too sweet, or more sugar if not sweet enough. Cool completely before bottling.

For the Alabama white sauce, combine one cup of mayonnaise, a teaspoon each of horseradish and mustard, a quarter teaspoon of cayenne, half a cup of vinegar, the juice of half a lemon and one or two grated garlic cloves, and season with kosher salt and black pepper.

Pull the pork by hand; it should be tender but not complete mush, with a deep pink smoke ring around the outside. Discard extra fat and bones.

Toss the South Carolina pork with a very generous amount of the vinegar mop sauce, squirt the Memphis pork with Kansas City sauce, and dress the Alabama pork with the Alabama white.

For the baked beans, brown half a pound of thick-cut bacon cut into bite-size pieces until crisp and the fat is rendered, then remove it.

Saute half a small chopped onion in one tablespoon of the fat, deglaze with two cups of water and scrape up the bottom of the pot.

Add two tablespoons of brown sugar, a tablespoon of blackstrap molasses, a teaspoon of dry mustard powder, two drained 15 ounce cans of navy beans, a bay leaf and the bacon.

Simmer over low heat or bake at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for two hours until thick, then season liberally with kosher salt and black pepper and add more sweet if necessary.

For the Carolina-style slaw, whisk three quarters of a cup of apple cider vinegar, a quarter cup of water, a quarter cup each of vegetable oil and sugar, a teaspoon of celery seeds, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, a big pinch of kosher salt and black pepper until dissolved.

Toss the dressing by hand with half a head of thinly sliced purple cabbage, half a head of green cabbage, two grated carrots and one small thinly sliced onion.

Toast only the inside of the roll, then layer baked beans, Alabama White pork, South Carolina pork, Memphis style pork with extra Kansas City sauce and a big pile of coleslaw.

Top and garnish with olives.