Potato gnocchi with a light cream pan sauce

Cook the potatoes by boiling in heavily salted water or roasting in the oven, aiming for a baked-potato consistency; if boiled, return them to the pot to dry in the residual heat.

Halve the roasted potatoes once slightly cooled and push them through a rack onto a sheet tray, or use a ricer or masher; no need to mash finely.

Season the potatoes with a little salt and pepper, add the egg and Pecorino Romano and work the egg through evenly.

Add the flour gradually in spurts, then turn the dough onto a floured board and work in flour to a Play-Doh consistency, stopping when the potato no longer releases moisture against the hand; do not overwork, or too much gluten makes it tough.

Roll pieces on the floured board into ropes about an inch to half an inch in diameter, keeping them uniform so they cook evenly.

Cut into bite-sized pieces; optionally roll each down a gnocchi board or the back of a fork for ridges that hold sauce.

Set the gnocchi aside to rest; they freeze well.

Bring a pot of water to a boil and salt it to taste like the ocean.

Heat enough vegetable oil to coat the pan over medium-high, add the onions and lower the heat slightly; sweat with a little salt and pepper.

After about a minute add the garlic and cook 30 seconds to a minute, until aromatic.

Add the tomatoes and cook down 2 to 3 minutes to concentrate.

Add heavy cream to cover the bottom of the pan, raise the heat and reduce to nappe, coating the back of a spoon.

Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water; they are done when they float, no more than about a minute.

Taste the sauce and add a little more salt, leaving room for the cheese.

Lift the gnocchi from the water into the sauce, plate and finish with more Pecorino Romano.