Potato gnocchi with browned butter

Chop the potatoes into roughly one-inch pieces of even size; weigh out 16 ounces into a pot.

Cover with cold water by about an inch, bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook 5 to 10 minutes until fork tender, not waterlogged.

Drain and let cool about 10 minutes.

Press through a sieve or ricer so there are no lumps, then let cool completely.

Variation: freeze shaped gnocchi on a baking sheet, transfer to a freezer bag, keep up to three months, and add a minute to the boil.

Add 240 g all-purpose flour, two large eggs and a teaspoon of salt; break up the eggs and mix with a fork until a shaggy dough forms.

Knead in the bowl into a ball, then on a lightly floured counter with floured hands until smooth and no longer very sticky.

Divide into six pieces and keep the ones not in use covered with plastic wrap.

Roll each piece into a half-inch-thick rope and cut into three-quarter-inch pieces.

Dust lightly with flour and roll each down a floured gnocchi board (or the back of a fork) with the thumb to make ridges; lay on a floured, parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet.

Bring a big pot of water to a boil with two teaspoons of salt and cook the gnocchi a handful at a time, 3 to 4 minutes until they float; transfer to a bowl.

Toss the gnocchi in browned butter and finish with grated Parmesan and fresh basil or fried sage.