Potato latkes with four toppings

Peel the potatoes and grate them with the onion on the large holes of a box grater; the browning from oxidation does not affect flavour.

Dump the grated potatoes into a clean kitchen towel, twist it tight and wring out the excess water, about half a cup from four large russets.

Let the wrung potato water sit in a bowl about five minutes until the starch settles; pour off the water and keep the starch.

Mix the reserved starch with three eggs.

In an extra large bowl combine the potatoes, the egg and starch mixture and about a cup of panko; mix by hand. Add a fourth egg if the potatoes do not hold their shape when pressed.

Roll portions into balls and smoosh them flat so the edges crack, for crisper edges.

Heat about half an inch of vegetable oil in a 12-inch skillet to 375F; fry the latkes 4 to 5 minutes per side until deeply golden brown and crisp.

Drain on a wire rack and salt immediately.

Variation, toppings: smoked salmon and cream cheese with dill; pastrami, whole grain mustard and a cornichon; cream cheese and spicy red pepper jelly; yogurt, pomegranate seeds, habanero slices and a drizzle of honey.