Potato leek soup

Trim the leeks, cutting where the white turns to green, halve the white segments lengthwise and wash thoroughly, flipping through the layers like a book.

Pat dry and slice very thinly, since leeks turn into little edible zip ties if the soup is not pureed.

Peel and chop three large russets into half-inch pieces and keep them covered in cold water.

Melt two tablespoons of butter in a wide, high-walled skillet, wait for the foaming to subside, and saute three leeks worth of sliced whites over medium heat three to five minutes until sweated and softening.

Deglaze with one liter of vegetable stock, bring to a simmer and add the potatoes.

Cook about fifteen minutes until the potatoes are completely softened and easily pierced by a paring knife.

For vichyssoise, puree it entirely smooth in something tall, narrow and heatproof and season to taste with kosher salt.

Add half a cup of heavy cream, taste for seasoning, then cover and fridge at least four hours until completely cold, as it is traditionally served cold.

Pour into a soup style bowl, garnish with a little more heavy cream, chives and freshly ground black pepper.

For the improved version, make a stock: halve and thoroughly wash the leek greens, chop them up and add celery with its leaves, carrots, a parsnip, one quartered onion, thyme, parsley, a little rosemary, a hefty fingerful of bay leaves and halved garlic cloves.

Cover with cold water, bring to a simmer with a lid on, then partially cover and hold at least two hours and up to four; strain out the solids and use one liter.

Cut the tops off two heads of garlic, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, twist aluminum foil tightly around them and roast at 400 degrees Fahrenheit 35 to 45 minutes.

Caramelize the leeks, keeping them moving low and slow for as long as possible without browning.

Deglaze with one cup of dry white wine and simmer over medium until the leeks are soft and jammy and the wine has all but evaporated, then deglaze again with the homemade stock, scraping up the fond, and add one liter of stock.

Boil the potatoes separately in plain salted water, then drain.

Add half the potatoes, squeeze in a head of roasted garlic and simmer about five minutes.

Blend about 30 seconds on max speed until liquefied, adding a scoop or two more potatoes to thicken if it is too thin, and season to taste with kosher salt and half a teaspoon of white pepper.

Return it to the pan and add the remaining potatoes for a chunky texture, an entire cup of heavy cream and about 50 grams of cork for tang.

Scoop into a pre-warmed bowl, garnish with chives and freshly ground black pepper and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.