Poulet au vinaigre (chicken thighs with vinegar pan sauce)

Season the meat side of the chicken thighs with kosher salt and black pepper; turn, blot the skin dry with a paper towel and season it.

Sear skin side down in a little vegetable oil over high heat without moving, about four or five minutes, until the skin releases and the fat renders.

Turn and sear the meat side a couple of minutes; remove the chicken.

Turn off the heat and blot out oil, leaving a couple of tablespoons.

Add the shallots with a big pinch of salt and cook over medium, stirring, a few minutes until just translucent.

Add sliced garlic and a spoon of tomato paste and cook, stirring, about a minute until the paste caramelizes on the pan.

Add the vinegar and stir to deglaze, about a minute, until the pan bottom is clean.

Add white wine and chicken broth, stir and bring to a simmer over high heat.

Return the chicken skin side up with any juices; turn off the heat and bake in the centre of a 325 degree oven 40 to 45 minutes, until fork tender.

Remove the chicken; boil the liquid over high heat until reduced by about half, skimming fat if desired.

Add a little cream and reduce another minute or so.

Reduce the heat to low and stir in a chunk of butter and chopped tarragon until the butter disappears.

Return the chicken and baste with the sauce; adjust with salt or a splash more vinegar.

Garnish with tarragon sprigs and chopped tarragon; serve with plenty of sauce, e.g. with mashed potatoes and a green vegetable.