Poutine with crinkle-cut fries and crispy Spam

Over low heat in a small saucepan, melt the butter and brown it slightly, until the milk solids turn brown.

Add the flour and stir to a paste; cook the flour out a little so it does not taste starchy.

Pour in the liquid while stirring constantly so it does not clump; a whisk helps, or vigorous bubbling at the pour. Let it foam and come together smooth.

Thicken a few minutes, set aside and cover so it does not form a skin.

Crinkle-cut the russet potatoes on a French mandolin with the crinkle attachment, a little thinner than a standard fry.

Fry in oil at about 350 to 375 (it cools with the first batch) without overfilling the pot, until crispy outside and tender inside, solid golden brown or a little darker; adjust batch to batch. Single fry, not double fried.

Dice the Spam small.

Pan-fry the Spam in a hot pan, spread out, turning up the heat, until at least the top and bottom are crisp with darker caramelized edges and the middle stays tender.

In a cast iron rondeau, spread the potatoes evenly (unsalted, since the dish carries plenty of salt), then a generous layer of cheese curds.

Put it in the oven until the curds melt.

Finish with the crispy Spam, a touch of rosemary and the brown gravy.