Pueblan cemita buns

Mix the pre-ferment: 75 g flour, 75 g water and a packet of yeast.

Ferment at least 4 hours, preferably overnight in the refrigerator; bring back toward room temperature before using.

Add 500 g all-purpose flour, 280 g lukewarm water, another packet of yeast, 1 tbsp sugar and 2 tsp salt to the pre-ferment, taring the scale between additions.

Knead with the dough hook, or by hand, about 6 minutes until very elastic, smooth and clear of the sides of the bowl.

Cover with a towel and rise about 1 hour until doubled.

Turn out, flour top and bottom, and divide into eight portions of 120 g, by scale or by halving.

Roll each into a tight ball on a lightly floured spot, pressing down with the heel of the hand and cupping the fingers to build surface tension.

With the side of the hand, roll about a quarter of the way in to form a bowling pin shape, a quarter of the dough on one side and three quarters on the other; rest about 10 minutes if it springs back.

Rest about 10 minutes so the gluten relaxes.

Press both parts flat, the large side to the size of the finished bun; pinch the small side, twist it 180 degrees, lay it on top and press it into the base to form the top knot.

Final rise about 30 minutes until about doubled; do not over-proof or they will not puff in the oven.

For the atole glaze, whisk 1 tbsp cornstarch into 1/2 cup water over medium heat until it nearly boils and thickens, add about 1 1/2 tsp sugar, and bring to a full boil; or microwave in 10-second bursts.

Heat the oven to 400. Brush the buns liberally with the atole and sprinkle generously with untoasted sesame seeds.

Bake on racks in the upper and lower thirds about 18 to 20 minutes until dark brown.