Pull-apart sour cream and chive dinner rolls

Stream half a cup of milk and half a cup of water into the flour for the tangzhong, whisking, wet into dry to prevent lumps.

Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the starches thicken it to a very thick paste and the bottom of the saucepan stays visible.

Scrape into the stand mixer bowl to cool off. Add 1.5 tsp active dry yeast directly (no proofing); the hook dissolves it.

Add two eggs, the sour cream and a quarter cup sugar; cold eggs and cool sour cream help cool the paste. Mix on low.

Add the remaining bread flour with the salt and half the butter. Mix on lowest speed upwards of five minutes until smooth and supple, scraping the hook and sides periodically; add a tablespoon of flour at a time if sticky, until tacky, not sticky.

Brush the bottom and sides of a 13 by 9 pan with two tablespoons room-temperature butter in a thick layer; no parchment.

Slice the dry chives with a sharp knife in a tidy bundle, slicing through rather than crushing, so each piece is an open circle.

Turn out the dough, gather the ends into a smooth round, dust lightly with flour and place in a lightly floured bowl. Cover and rise at room temperature until doubled, about 1.5 to 2 hours; or refrigerate overnight.

Lightly punch down the risen dough to release gas and refeed the yeast; turn onto a lightly floured surface and press or roll into about a 12 inch square.

Sprinkle the chives evenly, then loosely roll and fold the dough to enclose them.

Roll out to about 16 by 6 inches, pushing from the center and rolling crosswise at the ends to avoid tapering. Cut lengthwise into thirds and crosswise into eighths for 24 pieces.

Shape each: pinch the corners together into a bulb, then cup and roll it in small circles on an unfloured surface to stretch and seal. Place in the pan; refrigerate if working slowly.

Cover (a proofing bag) and rise at room temperature 45 minutes to an hour until touching and nearly doubled; a poke springs back leaving a slight impression.

Heat the oven to 375F with a center rack. Brush the tops with the remaining beaten egg; top with a little fresh black pepper and flaky salt.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes until risen, deep golden brown and shiny; these took about 25.

Brush the remaining two tablespoons butter over the hot rolls. Cool in the pan 10 to 15 minutes, then slide out with a spatula and pull apart.