Pulled chicken shawarma sandwich

Mix salt, cumin, sumac, smoked paprika, chili powder, black pepper, garlic powder, turmeric, ground cloves, cayenne and cinnamon into a shawarma spice blend.

Put a whole chicken (almost 5 pounds) in a big pot with sliced garlic and onion and about half the spice mix.

Add a quart of cold water, coming about halfway up the chicken; bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to low or medium-low.

Cover and simmer gently 20 minutes; turn breast side down, cover, simmer 20 minutes; flip back and simmer 20 more, one hour in all (one flip is enough).

Transfer the chicken to a big bowl, turn off the heat and cool 20 to 30 minutes until it can be handled.

Pull off the big chunks of meat; return the bones and scraps to the pot, rinsing the bowl in with some cold water.

Bring back to a simmer on high, then simmer gently on low at least an hour, ideally two.

Shred the reserved meat into pieces, not too small, and refrigerate.

Strain the broth and return it to the pot; do not skim off the chicken fat.

Boil on high until reduced by about half by eye, probably about 15 minutes.

Reduce to medium, add the chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes.

Taste and season with salt and more spice mix.

Reduce heat to low and finish with the juice of half a lemon.

Toast a sandwich roll in the oven with a little olive oil; fill generously with the chicken, then sliced red onion, a drizzle of garlicky tahini sauce, a sprinkle of spice blend and fresh cilantro.