Pumpkin ravioli with brown butter and sage

Make a well in 100 g of 00 flour, checking it has no weak spots; add one egg.

Slowly combine the egg into the flour with a fork, scraping the bottom; once thicker, continue by hand, keeping extra flour at the side for humid weather.

Knead: tap and fold gently at first so it does not stick, then fold and press with the heel of the hand until smooth, letting the gluten develop. A slightly dry dough loosens as it rests.

Press into a rectangle, wrap in saran wrap so it does not dry, and rest 45 minutes, the traditional time. For use the next day, refrigerate at once.

Filling: combine the pumpkin puree, half the mozzarella, half the bacon, the light brown sugar, the zest of about half a lemon (turning the lemon so as not to reach the bitter rind), cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, salt and pepper.

Whisk to break up the brown sugar until well combined.

Set a piping bag with no tip in a bain-marie or cup, scrape the filling in with a rubber spatula, squeeze out the air and twist twice.

Flour the hand pasta roller and the table; roll the rested dough from setting 10 down to 2 or 3, working quickly so it does not dry but not so fast it cracks, pulling it halfway through so it does not fold onto itself.

Cut the sheet in half with a bench scraper, trim the short edges and wipe off excess flour.

On the shorter strip, pipe dots of filling the size of a quarter with room between for the cutter; ring each with a little water using a finger or pastry brush.

Lay the second sheet over; press around each mound with two fingers to push out the air without creasing, then press again more firmly so they hold while boiling.

Cut with a ravioli cutter, pressing hard and rocking forward and back, not side to side; lift with the bench scraper and cover so they do not dry.

Boil in water salted to taste like the sea, dropping them in together off the parchment; stir lightly. Fresh pasta is done when it rises, about five to eight minutes.

Warm the serving plate so the bottom layer of pasta stays as hot as the top.

Melt the butter in a pan over medium-low heat and brown it to a nutty smell and amber colour without letting it go black; add part of the sage later so it does not burn, then a little more salt and pepper.

Lift the ravioli out, shaking off the water, and let them sit on a plate.

Add the ravioli and the rest of the sage to the brown butter and keep them in the pan one to two minutes for colour.

Plate half the ravioli, cover with the reserved mozzarella and bacon, top with the rest of the ravioli so their heat melts the cheese, then pour over the remaining butter and finish with more cheese and bacon.