Pure butter croissants, with pain au chocolat and pain aux raisins from the same dough

Combine equal parts cold water and milk with fresh yeast, sugar and honey; stir.

Add bread flour and all-purpose flour, then the salt and room-temperature butter; mix five minutes on low until it comes together.

Increase to medium-high and knead six minutes, or until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl.

Turn out without extra flour and check the windowpane test for developed gluten; shape into a tight round, put in a lightly oiled bowl and refrigerate overnight.

Shape room-temperature high-fat butter into a 6 x 6 inch (15 x 15 cm) butter block.

After about 12 hours, deflate the dough, split it in two (at home, without a sheeter), shape into two tight ovals and rest 10 minutes.

Shape into narrow rectangles on a frozen tray and freeze 20 minutes, then flip and freeze again.

Take the butter block out about 15 minutes before the turns so it becomes supple; about five minutes in warm weather.

Roll each dough piece into a 6 by 16 inch (15 by 40 cm) rectangle, twice the length of the butter block; place the butter on top and fold the dough over to encase it.

Rotate a quarter turn, press down with a rolling pin, make a deep straight cut along each border so the butter spreads evenly, flatten slightly and refrigerate 10 minutes.

Give a double turn: roll into a long strip with straight edges, rolling from the centre outward; fold one-sixth in from the left, bring the other edge to meet it, fold in the right third and fold in half like a book.

Cover with the butter-block parchment and refrigerate about 30 minutes or longer.

Give a single turn: roll to a 6 by 27 inch (15 by 70 cm) rectangle, trim the edges straight and fold in thirds like a business letter.

Flatten into an 8.5 inch (22 cm) square paton and refrigerate an hour.

variation: for the pain aux raisins, cook a pastry cream, spread it on a frozen tray lined with plastic wrap, cool and refrigerate; smooth it in a stand mixer with the paddle just before use.

variation: drain raisins that have soaked in rum; dice candied orange peel.

Cut the paton in two, freeze 15 minutes, then roll and pass through a pasta machine, decreasing the setting, to 5 mm thick, about 8 by 19 inches (20 by 48 cm).

variation: for pain aux raisins, spread the chilled pastry cream over the sheet, scatter raisins and candied orange peel, roll into two logs and cut each into eight; arrange on a baking tray, egg wash and freeze.

variation: for chocolatines, cut the sheet into eight rectangles, add chocolate sticks or discs, roll into tight logs, egg wash and freeze.

For croissants, cut the 5 mm sheet in half, then lengthwise, and cut two triangles from each rectangle, 65 to 70 grams each.

Holding the base, gently stretch each triangle toward the tip, roll from base to tip and press the tip to seal; an incision in the base first gives a wider croissant.

Egg wash twice before freezing overnight, which strengthens the gluten, and once more when proofed and ready to bake.

Proof the pain aux raisins inside buttered and sugared cake rings so they come out crispy.

Proof 2 to 3 hours at 25C (77F).

Bake in a fan oven at 180C.