Qianxi-style master stock rice noodle soup (lufen)

Blanch the meats in a wok starting from cool water just to submerge; bring to a boil, and once they change colour remove and rinse off the gunk.

Cut the pork belly into roughly 2 inch pieces and return to the other meat.

In a clean wok heat the lard over medium-low, add the rock sugar and slowly fry until it melts and darkens to caramel, foaming in big bubbles.

At once add the 2 L of boiling hot water — never cold — to the roughly 200 degree sugar.

Pour the coloured liquid over the meat in the stewing pot; add the scallion knot, ginger, the spices in a tea strainer wrapped in cheesecloth, salt, sugar, dark soy sauce and Shaoxing wine.

Bring to a heavy boil, drop to the lowest heat, cover and stew 2 hours.

Remove the drumettes (and any small pieces that would disintegrate); add tofu and hard boiled eggs, cover and stew another 2 hours.

Skim off the thick layer of oil, about a quarter cup, and reserve it.

Add hot dogs and beef balls, return to a boil, then stew on low 10 to 15 minutes.

Move the stewed items and most of the stock to a serving pot that keeps heat.

To about 1 cup of stock left in the pot add 2 cups water, bring to a boil, blanch napa if wanted, then cook the rice noodles briefly in the stock to absorb flavour; portion into bowls and keep the cooking liquid for the table.

Mix the topping: scallion, fish wort, toasted chili flakes, salt, MSG, light soy sauce and drinking water.

At the table, cut the stewed items over the noodles, add master stock, the topping, chili sauce and the skimmed oil.