Quesadillas fritas (fried masa turnovers with cheese and epazote)

To the corn masa add about 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, a little over 2 tablespoons lard, half a teaspoon baking powder and a teaspoon of salt; work in thoroughly.

Test by pressing out a ball: cracks around the edge mean too dry. Work in a splash of water until a pressed ball no longer cracks, softer than Play-Doh, like cookie dough.

Roll into an even log and divide into 12 pieces; roll into balls and keep covered if working slowly.

Shape the melting cheese into small football shapes.

Line a heavy tortilla press with two rounds of plastic, press a ball gently, turn 180 degrees and press again to about 4.5 to 5 inches.

Lay torn epazote and a piece of cheese on the masa, use the plastic to fold the masa over to encase the filling, press very firmly with no air pockets and seal well.

Set on a plastic-covered baking sheet; repeat until the masa is used. Fillings must be quite dry.

Heat about an inch of oil to 360F, using a deep fry thermometer.

Fry three at a time, nearly submerged, turning until golden brown, about 5 minutes; raise the heat if the oil drops below about 350F, and remove any that leak cheese.

Drain on paper towels.

Serve half nestled in a napkin to keep warm, with roasted tomatillo salsa on top.