Quick cured salmon

Brine: stir plenty of kosher salt and a fair amount of white sugar into cold fresh water until completely dissolved and clear.

Cut either side of the central streak of connective tissue down to the skin, turn the blade parallel to the board and slice the flesh off the skin; trim away any grey flesh.

Cut into slices about a quarter inch thick, keeping them close to that for the brining time.

Brine five or six slices at a time for exactly 3 minutes, moving them a little.

Lift onto a rack or paper towels and blot dry; moist is fine, wet is not.

Lay on a platter, wrap tightly and refrigerate until ice cold, at least 2 to 3 hours, better overnight; the colour deepens and the texture firms.

Serve dipped in soy sauce with a little ginger, as a crudo, or on flatbread with cream cheese and chive.