Quick dinner rolls

Weigh out 420 g all-purpose flour in total, divided into 180 g in one bowl and 210 g in a second. Too much flour gives breadier, disappointing rolls.

Put 240 ml whole milk at about 110F in the bowl of a stand mixer; warm the bowl with hot water first if the kitchen is cold.

Stir in one packet of instant yeast.

Add the 180 g of flour.

Add 71 g softened butter a tablespoon at a time.

Add three tablespoons sugar and one egg.

Add one teaspoon salt.

Paddle on medium low about a minute until combined.

Add the remaining 210 g of flour, fit the dough hook and run on medium about two minutes until it pulls together.

If the dough sticks to a clean finger it needs more flour; add as little as possible, one tablespoon at a time, and scrape the bowl down. Tacky is right, sticking is too wet.

Mix about a minute and test again, then continue about two minutes until the dough balls up around the hook.

Variation: fold in two to three tablespoons of fresh herbs, up to a head of roasted garlic, or about a quarter cup of cheese.

Transfer to an oiled bowl, turning the dough over a couple of times so it is all oiled.

Cover with a bonnet or a slightly damp cloth and rise somewhere warm 45 minutes to an hour, until doubled.

Punch the dough down, lightly flour the surface and turn it out.

Divide into 15 equal pieces of about 55 grams each.

Pinch the edges of each piece in, put it floured side up on a clean unfloured counter, cup it with thumb and middle finger and roll in a tight circle to build surface tension.

Butter a nine by 13 inch ceramic or glass pan and place the rolls in rows of three, spaced slightly.

Cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap and rise until about doubled, 30 to 45 minutes. They can go in the fridge at this point for an overnight bake instead.

Heat the oven to 350F.

Bake at 350F about 20 minutes, until a deep golden colour.

Brush with about two tablespoons of butter straight out of the oven and sprinkle with salt if wanted. Cool slightly.