Ragda with potato patties

Temper the oil with whole black mustard seeds until they pop, then the cumin, which takes less time.

Add the curry leaves.

Patties: mix the boiled mashed potatoes with breadcrumbs and dried mango so they hold together and carry some crunch.

Add chopped fresh cilantro, crushed whole cumin and serrano chili to the potato.

Cook the patties; the crushed cumin toasts as they cook.

Add the asafoetida, standing back because it spatters, then the whole onion.

Add the soaked legumes with their soaking water, plus a little more water, and cook them down soft.

Add the crushed dry fenugreek leaves with the coriander and fennel.

Add a quarter teaspoon of turmeric; more and the sauce turns bitter.

Add the pureed fresh ginger, the chilies and the crushed garlic.

Add the onions, cover and leave on a low flame until the legumes are soft. Salt with non-iodized sea salt.

Add the black salt and chaat masala when the sauce is about to be done.

Spice order: whole spices -- cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon stick -- go in at the beginning. Ground spices burn in that heat, so add a little water with the turmeric, red chili powder or fenugreek-coriander paste and let them toast until the water evaporates, then add the tomatoes or vegetables.

Mint chutney: two parts cilantro to one part mint, lemon juice, roasted curry leaves and cumin, crushed together.

Date and tamarind chutney: cook fresh tamarind and dates together with a touch of lime juice and a touch of chilli.

Serve the ragda over the patties, topped with fine chickpea noodles, fresh cilantro, chaat masala and raw onion.