Ramen orecchiette noodle soup

Heat a teaspoon of baking soda in a dry pan on high, shaking a minute or two, until it clumps and then turns dry and fine again (washing soda).

Dissolve the washing soda in half a cup (118 ml) water and work in as much flour as it will take; a shaggy dough is fine.

Cover and let the flour hydrate at least 15 minutes.

For the broth, snip into a pot the peeled lemongrass, unpeeled ginger, green onion tops, some lime zest and a couple handfuls of dried mushrooms.

Cover with plenty of water, bring to a boil, then a spirited simmer for at least half an hour.

Slice the carrots, fresh chili and green onions thin on the bias; cut the lime into wedges.

Roll the rested dough on a bare counter into a snake as thin as possible; slice off thin pieces and dust lightly with flour.

Strain out and discard the broth solids.

Season with soy sauce, a splash of rice vinegar and a spoonful of sugar, adding soy until a little too salty.

Boil the carrots about 10 minutes, replenishing water as needed; add the green onions and chili five minutes from the end.

Two minutes from the end, stir in the noodles and bring back to a boil.

Drizzle in toasted sesame oil to break the foam, turn off the heat and add about a cup of frozen peas.

Serve with fresh cilantro and a squeeze of lime.