Red curry with chicken and kabocha squash (saute-the-paste method)

Bring about a third of the coconut milk to a full boil.

Add the curry paste, turn the heat to about medium and stir to break up the lumps; lower the heat further as it thickens and starts to splatter.

Keep stirring until very thick and the coconut oil separates from the paste, probably within 5 minutes; let it stay separated 30 seconds to a minute before moving on.

Variation: reduce the coconut milk until it separates first, then add the paste and saute it about 3 minutes.

Add the rest of the coconut milk and a little stock and stir to dissolve the paste.

Season now with about half the fish sauce you expect to need and some palm sugar, so the meat and vegetables cook in seasoned liquid.

Add bruised makrut lime leaves; give the liquid a total simmer of at least 5 minutes so the paste integrates.

Add the bite-sized chicken thighs and let them braise 15 minutes in all to tenderize.

After the chicken has had about 8 minutes, add the kabocha squash, which takes about 7 minutes.

When the squash is done and the chicken fork tender, stir in the sliced bell peppers and turn off the heat; residual heat warms them through.

Taste and adjust the seasoning; here a little more fish sauce.

Stir in the Thai basil and let it wilt in the residual heat.