Ribollita (Tuscan bread soup)

Smash garlic with a little salt in a mortar (or with a fork in a bowl); add olive oil and stir with the pestle about 30 seconds.

Tear a whole loaf of ciabatta into large, jagged chunks and spread on a parchment-lined sheet pan; spoon, drizzle and pour the garlic oil over and toss by hand.

Spread in an even layer and toast at 300 degrees for about 30 minutes, until dried out and starting to toast; cool.

Mash one can of drained cannellini beans in a mixing bowl with a potato masher until fairly smooth; add a can of whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes and mash in, as smooth or coarse as wanted.

In a soup pot with a drizzle of olive oil, saute celery, carrots and onions with a big pinch of salt over medium-high heat 3 to 4 minutes, until the onions soften and turn translucent.

Add finely minced garlic, dry oregano, dry thyme, dried rosemary and one bay leaf; saute about 1 minute.

Add chicken broth and a big splash of water used to rinse out the tomato can.

Bring to a simmer on high, then reduce to medium-low and cook about 10 minutes until the vegetables are soft and sweet.

Raise to a simmer and stir in the Tuscan kale; cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, to give the greens a head start (longer for collards).

Add finely chopped Italian parsley, the second can of whole beans, black pepper, a few shakes of cayenne, the tomato-bean mixture and a splash of water or broth rinsed from the bowl.

Stir in about half the toasted bread and a generous addition of salt; simmer about 15 minutes, until the bread collapses and the greens are tender, adding a handful of Parmesan.

Check the greens are tender and taste for salt; stir in about 3 tbsp white wine vinegar for acidity.

Turn off the heat and poke in half the remaining toasted bread (use less bread for a soupier result).

Finish with grated cheese, Italian parsley, red chili flakes, celery leaves and a very generous drizzle of olive oil.

Ladle into bowls and garnish with the remaining toasted bread, more cheese, olive oil and parsley.