Ricotta and greens ravioli with butter, olive oil and lemon

Mound the flour on the bench and make a well like a volcano crater; add the yolks, the whole egg and a tablespoon of olive oil. No salt in the dough.

Beat from the centre with a fork, widening the walls, then bring in the rest of the flour with a bench scraper.

Knead by rotating and pushing rather than folding, upwards of 20 minutes, adding a little water if it stays cracked, until very firm, smooth, supple and springing back when poked; here about 15 minutes.

Wrap in plastic and rest in the fridge to relax the dough and fully hydrate the flour.

Strip the ribs from the chard and the dandelion stalks, rinse, tear and drain over a towel.

Wilt the greens in a skillet over medium with a little olive oil until collapsed; cool.

Mix the strained ricotta with a finely grated garlic clove, lemon zest, red pepper flakes and a little salt.

Press the moisture out of the greens with paper towel and chop finely so they pass through a piping bag; mix in, taste and adjust salt and pepper flakes, then add the egg.

Roll a quarter of the dough by hand with a rolling pin, then through the pasta roller on the widest setting, folding the ends in to keep a rectangle; two passes, then one click thinner at a time.

Lay the sheet on a floured bench and cover it so it does not dry; roll the second piece the same way.

Cut a sheet in half; pipe two lengthwise rows of about tablespoon-size mounds of filling on the bottom piece.

Brush the borders with water, drape the slightly longer top piece over and press around each mound to push out the air; pierce any large bubble.

Optionally run a round cutter over each mound to shape it; cut into squares and transfer to a floured cookie sheet, covered with a towel.

Bring a pot of water to a boil and salt it well, since the dough is unsalted.

Cook the ravioli until they float, about two minutes.

Transfer with plenty of pasta water to a skillet with a little butter and olive oil; add lemon juice and red pepper flake and simmer to thicken slightly; finish with a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt.