Ricotta cake with macerated strawberries

Preheat the oven to 375 with a rack in the middle.

Butter only the bottom of the pan, lay in a parchment circle and butter the parchment; leave the sides bare so the cake grips and craters in the centre as it falls.

Variation: fill the crater with whipped cream and fruit instead, or macerate blackberries, halved pitted cherries, sliced peaches or plums in place of the strawberries.

Process two cups of ricotta with one cup of cold heavy cream about 30 seconds until thick, silky and smooth.

Add a cup of sugar, the lemon zest, half a teaspoon of kosher salt, the four egg yolks plus the extra yolk and two teaspoons of vanilla extract; process again until homogenous.

Pulse the flour in just until mixed.

Beat the four egg whites with a pinch of salt on low until frothy and opaque, sprinkle in the reserved tablespoon of sugar, raise the speed and beat to firm peaks without over-beating. Use a glass or metal bowl, not plastic, and keep any yolk out of the whites.

Fold the whites into the ricotta base with a large flexible spatula, scraping the bottom over the top, until no more than a single streak remains.

Scrape into the prepared pan and smooth the surface with an offset spatula.

Bake at 375 for 40 to 45 minutes, until deeply golden brown all over with a slight wobble in the centre and springy to a press.

Cool completely in the pan; the cake falls into a crater as it cools, which is correct.

Hull and slice the strawberries about a quarter inch thick and macerate with a little sugar and lemon juice.

Run an offset spatula or butter knife round the ungreased sides to loosen, lift the cake off the base on its parchment and slice.

Top with the macerated strawberries and drizzle some of their juices over.