Rillons (candied pork belly in red wine caramel)

Skin the pork belly as you would a fish: hold the fat and bring the knife toward you.

Cut into pieces of roughly the same size, one bite each.

Toss with a little salt and let it sit so the salt sinks in before the caramel goes on.

Combine the sugar and red wine, no salt, bring to a rolling boil, then lower a little to concentrate until syrupy. Pick in some thyme.

Pour the caramel over the pork, coat it all, and pack the pieces in snugly, keeping it deep enough that the molten fat does not burn anyone.

Bake uncovered, tossing regularly so the caramel coats evenly, until caramelised to a lacquer just before burning, about another 45 minutes from the midpoint.

Remove and cool on plates before eating.