Roast turkey

Set the oven to 450.

Thaw the bird two to three days in advance and let it sit on the countertop about an hour to come close to room temperature.

Drain any juices from the roasting pan and pat the bird completely dry so the skin can crisp.

Peel and quarter the onion and cut the garlic head down the middle.

Make the compound butter: work the sea salt and cracked black pepper evenly into the softened butter.

Fill the cavity with the garlic and onions.

Work your hands carefully under the skin, including into the leg, to make cavities, and push butter under the skin, smoothing it from over the skin.

Stuff the eight sprigs of rosemary and eight sprigs of sage into the cavity with the quartered onion and halved garlic head.

Rub the rest of the compound butter all over the turkey, top and bottom.

Tie the legs together with kitchen twine, removing any plastic hook and the pop-out thermometer, and pin any torn skin closed.

Put the remaining two to four sprigs of rosemary and sage in the roasting pan, with extra onions and a halved lemon if making gravy.

Add four cups of chicken stock to the pan and sprinkle the skin with a final bit of salt and pepper.

Roast at 450 for about 15 minutes, then reduce to 325 and cook 10 to 12 minutes per pound — a 12 pound turkey is 120 to 144 minutes.

Reduce to 325 for the rest of the cook.

Baste every 30 minutes or so with a baster or pastry brush.

Tent the tips with foil if they are browning too fast.

Cook to about 165 in the innermost part of the thigh without touching the bone.

Rest at least 15 minutes, and preferably 20, before carving; strain the pan juices for gravy.

Plate and garnish with rosemary and a smattering of fresh cranberries.