Roasted butternut squash soup

Cut off the top of the squash, cut down into the centre of the neck, tip it up and cut straight down to split, keeping fingers clear; scrape out the seeds.

Drizzle olive oil in a roasting pan; toss in the onions and carrots with a big pinch of salt, add about six whole peeled garlic cloves, and set the squash on top cut side up with a sprinkle of salt.

Roast at 400F about an hour, until the squash is soft enough to scoop.

Melt about four tablespoons of butter over medium heat until it foams and turns light nutty brown, lowering the heat near the end; turn off the heat and stir in a handful of sage leaves to toast and infuse.

Scoop the squash flesh into the roasting pan with the vegetables; transfer everything to a soup kettle and add the sage brown butter, the maple syrup and the chicken broth.

Bring to a simmer on high, then simmer on low 45 minutes to an hour.

Blend very smooth with an immersion blender for a few minutes, then pass through a strainer for a silkier texture.

Thin with a little water; balance with a big splash of apple cider vinegar, a couple of big pinches of salt and a shake of cayenne; heat through and taste.

Ladle into a hot bowl; garnish with a spoon of creme fraiche and chopped chives.