Roasted cauliflower with fried garlic and five-spice powder

Cut one head of cauliflower into even florets and toss generously with vegetable oil until coated; do not salt.

Lay on the pan without the excess oil, pieces not touching, flat faces down for maximum contact.

Roast on the middle rack of a 450 degree oven until browned.

Whisk salt, sugar, white pepper and five-spice powder together ahead of time so the sugar keeps the spice from clumping.

Split the dried chilies in half and remove the seeds.

After 10 minutes stir the cauliflower, since the outer pieces brown faster; about 15 minutes in all.

In the wok, cover lots of garlic with oil, starting cold, and fry low and slow until golden and the bubbling subsides as it crisps; lift the garlic out of the oil.

Pour off the excess garlic oil, leaving what clings to the wok; heat again and cook the chilies until a little darker and smoky.

Add the cooled cauliflower, the dry seasoning and soy sauce poured along the sides; toss hard to spread the seasoning, then turn off the heat.

Toss in some of the fried garlic and green onions; finish with more green onions, the reserved fried garlic and the chilies on top.