Roasted garden tomato sauce

Heat the oven to 450F, convection if available.

Cut away damaged parts of the tomatoes; cut every tomato at least in half, bigger ones into more pieces, all roughly equal size.

Coat the pieces in olive oil in the pan and turn them skin side up, one layer, each piece with its own space; do not pile them.

Meanwhile chop the garlic and shallots.

Roast about half an hour; the skins burn and protect the flesh. Not done while a layer of juice remains on the bottom of the pan.

Return to the oven until the liquid has reduced and started to brown on the bottom of the pan, about 15 more minutes; times vary.

Add the shallots and garlic and roast 4 or 5 minutes more; do not let the bottom of the pan go darker than the edge of burning.

Lift off the burnt skins; shake the flesh out of any that stick. Leave burnt bits that will not come off for a smoky note.

Mash the tomatoes with a wooden spoon; use the liquid they release to deglaze the pan, mashing and scraping.

Season with salt and pepper. Puree if a smooth sauce is wanted, or leave chunky.

Optional: melt in butter with the residual heat of the pan; low temperature keeps it from separating and gives a thick, glossy emulsion.

Tear in basil at the last second; add the cooked pasta with some of its cooking water if the sauce is too thick.

Grate cheese over the top.