Roasted habanero salsa

Roast the habaneros on a dry comal (or dry skillet) with the unpeeled garlic cloves, turning, about 10 minutes, until the chiles are blackened, blistered and soft through and the garlic is completely soft.

Put the habaneros in a food processor; peel the garlic and add it.

Pulse until more or less finely chopped, keeping a little texture.

Squeeze in fresh lime juice, standing back from the fumes, add a tiny bit of water, scrape down and process to a coarse puree.

Add salt and run the machine once more.

Scrape into a small bowl and thin with a little more liquid until it no longer mounds, so it can be used in droplets.

Variation: stir about a teaspoon of the salsa, plus a touch more, into a little good mayonnaise for habanero mayo; chopped cilantro can be added. Equal parts buttermilk and sour cream with black pepper and garlic make it a ranch dressing; crumbled blue cheese makes a blue cheese dressing.