Rogan josh, Kashmiri Wazwan style

Put the bone-in lamb in the pressure cooker with the garlic, bay leaf, cloves, cinnamon stick and salt; add hot water just to cover.

Bring to a boil over medium heat and skim off the scum for a clear broth.

Add the crushed black and green cardamoms, close the lid, bring to full pressure on high, then cook on low 30 minutes (35 in an Instant Pot), to about 80% done, not falling off the bone.

Heat the mustard oil on high until smoking, lower the heat to cool it, add the onions and a sprinkle of salt; stir on medium until browning at the edges.

Stir continuously once colouring for even browning; stop at golden brown, not chocolate brown, which turns bitter. Spread the onions on a plate to stop the residual heat darkening them.

Cool, then blend the onions with a third of a cup of water to a paste.

Optional: steep a few saffron threads in about a quarter cup of hot water, ideally before browning the onions.

After 30 minutes switch off and let the pressure release naturally before opening. Remove the bay leaf, cardamom, cinnamon stick and cloves.

In the onion pan add a tablespoon each of oil and ghee and warm on medium; switch off the heat, add the Kashmiri chilli powder and paprika, immediately add a few ladles of broth and bubble on very low for a few seconds.

Add the red pepper oil to the lamb with the fennel powder, dried ginger powder, turmeric, ground coriander and garam masala; on high heat add the onion paste and saffron water.

Boil on high until the gravy thickens and the red oil (rogan) floats on top; if the meat starts falling apart, lift it out and boil the gravy down alone.

Taste and adjust with salt or more Kashmiri chilli powder; it thickens further as it cools.