Roll-out Christmas sugar cookies with glaze icing

Soften cold butter in the microwave on low, 10 to 15 seconds at a time, rotating between bursts, until soft but not melted.

Put the butter in a big bowl and beat in the sugar just until combined; creaming in too much air makes the cookies fluffy and cakey.

Beat in the eggs until smooth, then the vanilla, salt and baking powder.

Mix in the flour a cup at a time in three batches, then keep adding flour until the dough is just barely sticky; too sticky gives thin crispy cookies that spread, too dry cracks when rolled.

Chill the dough in the fridge at least an hour; it must be cold when rolled.

Dust the countertop with powdered sugar or flour. Roll the dough straight from the fridge a little at a time, turning often and sweeping powder underneath, to 2 or 3 mm thick.

Punch out shapes by pushing straight down hard and twisting a little; lift each cookie on its cutter to a parchment-lined sheet, close together. Use the spatula for any that stick.

Gather the trimmings; if the dough is too warm and sticky, freeze 5 to 10 minutes before rolling again.

Bake at 350 F / 180 C convection (375 F without a fan, rotating the pans halfway) until the edges just start to brown, about 18 minutes for the bottom tray.

Cool the cookies completely.

Whisk a mountain of powdered sugar with just enough milk to make a glaze; adjust with more sugar or milk. A squeeze of corn syrup gives a shinier, softer glaze.

Divide the glaze, colouring portions with food coloring and adding powdered sugar to tighten if the colour loosens it.

Dip each cookie into the base coat, drizzle over another colour and draw with a toothpick, or paint the icing on with a butter knife; tap on sprinkles.

Leave overnight: the icing hardens and the cookie softens a little.