Roman-style pizza al taglio from a no-knead tray dough

In a large bowl, mix the flour, yeast and salt so the yeast and salt are well distributed.

Add half the water and mix with a spatula until absorbed; add the rest and keep mixing until no dry flour is left.

Add at least four tablespoons of olive oil and mix with the spatula, under three minutes, to a wet, sticky dough. No kneading.

Seal the bowl with plastic wrap and cover with a damp cloth.

Ferment at room temperature 3 to 8 hours, or in the fridge 8 to 20 hours, until doubled.

With oiled hands, turn the dough onto the bench, oil it and divide in two.

Fold each piece over itself and turn, four to five folds, into a smooth ball that springs back.

Oil the trays generously, set a ball in each, squash and stretch it a little, cover with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature at least three hours.

Salt the diced tomatoes.

Press the dough out to the tray like a focaccia, flip it and press again, edges included; spread olive oil on top.

Par-bake uncovered 20 minutes at 230 degrees Celsius.

Spread the tomatoes to cover every corner and bake 5 minutes more.

Top with Pecorino and mozzarella, including the sides, and a touch of olive oil; bake at 230 degrees Celsius until the cheese melts.

Variation: top the second pizza with cherry tomatoes, bake about five minutes, then add Pecorino, mozzarella and spicy salami and finish as above.