Rou jia mo

Remove the skin from the pork and cut it into a few pieces.

Blanch the meat: cover with cold water, bring to a boil, lift the meat out and discard the water.

In a clean pot over low heat, stir the oil and sugar until the sugar turns a red caramel colour; take it off the stove at once and cool.

Once the caramel is cool and sticky, add warm water and stir until dissolved.

Add the pork, then the cinnamon, fennel seed, cloves, black peppercorn, Sichuan peppercorn, gan chao, star anise, orange peel, garlic, ginger, cooking wine, dark soy sauce and spring onion white.

Add water to cover, bring to a boil, season with salt and taste.

Cover and simmer at least three hours, topping up with water if it reduces too far.

Mix the flour and baked baking soda; pour in the yeast water and mix on low with the paddle for a minute or two.

Switch to the hook and knead on low five to eight minutes, then knead by hand until smooth.

Proof 20 minutes at room temperature, no longer, or the bread turns too soft.

Roll the dough into a long strip and divide into six pieces.

Roll a piece into a strip, flatten with a rolling pin, roll it up, pull the end over the top, stand it up and flatten by hand, then roll out flat to about 11 to 12 cm across.

Toast the breads in a frying pan over low heat, spaced apart, lid on for the first side; check after about five minutes and flip when lightly yellow.

Cook the second side with the lid off so the crust stays crisp; both sides yellow and slightly crusted to a fork.

Check the meat is tender enough to break with chopsticks, lift it to a board and chop it, adding the cooking brine as you chop until it takes no more.

Cut a bread halfway open and open out the inside with the knife tip to make a pocket.

Stuff with the meat and a spoon of the brine.

Variation: mix chopped scallion and cilantro into the meat and add chili sauce.