Sai ua, Northern Thai herb-and-curry-paste pork sausage, made caseless and broiled

Remove some of the seeds from the dried chilies and grind them in a coffee grinder.

Put chopped lemongrass, galangal and turmeric, shallots, garlic and shrimp paste in a container for the immersion blender.

Thinly slice the green zest off half a kaffir lime with a knife, avoiding the bitter white pith; add it.

Add fish sauce, the only seasoning, to help it grind; add the ground chilies and blend to a fine curry paste (or pound in a mortar and pestle).

Mix the curry paste thoroughly into fatty ground pork, wearing gloves.

Remove the spines from the kaffir lime leaves, julienne very finely and cut again; mix in with green onions and cilantro until evenly distributed.

Scoop half a cup of mixture, fold the wrap over and press, roll to about eight inches long, tie the ends like toffee and smooth out bumps; or form patties or balls, or stuff casings.

Refrigerate at least two hours, preferably overnight, to firm up and let the flavours penetrate.

Cook a little of the mixture in a microwave or skillet and taste for salt and heat before forming.

Fry patties in a skillet or grill stuffed sausages; for caseless sausages, start them under the broiler on a foil-lined sheet pan.

Once firm and releasing liquid, move them to an oiled narrow rack to finish dry; broil until browned on each side, rotating, about four to five minutes per side.

Cool a little before cutting so the juices stay in; slice on a bias. Serve with sticky rice and fresh vegetables.