Salmon chowder

Put a few ounces of pancetta cubes in the pot with a little water over high heat; the water helps the fat render so that once it evaporates the pancetta browns.

Add celery and diced onion and a couple of thyme sprigs; turn down to medium-low to soften without browning.

Season with a little salt and MSG and plenty of black pepper.

Peel Yukon Gold potatoes and cut into chunks.

Add a couple tablespoons of flour and cook out the raw flavour without darkening.

Add bottled clam juice and cook until it thickens a little and the flour dissolves.

Add about two cups each of half and half and milk, and the potatoes.

Cut about 8 ounces of fresh salmon from the fillet, remove pin bones and skin, and cut into bite-size chunks, not too small or they overcook.

Bring to a simmer with a bay leaf and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Thin with more half and half if too thick; remove the thyme sprigs.

Add the salmon chunks and cook a few minutes.

Tear the smoked salmon into bite-size pieces and chop dill fronds.

Stir in the smoked salmon, a little squeeze of lemon and the dill; add more black pepper, then taste and adjust salt and MSG.

Serve with hot sauce, a little drizzle of olive oil and oyster crackers.