Salted pumpkin caramels

Optional: toast pumpkin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat, tossing often, until lightly golden, not too dark or they taste burnt and bitter; cool in a bowl.

Lightly butter a baking dish and line it with two crossing strips of parchment cut to the inside width, flipping each so both sides are buttered; an 8x8 silicone pan needs no parchment. Spread the seeds in an even layer on the bottom.

Whisk pure pumpkin puree with heavy cream in a small sauce pan and keep warm at the back of the stove.

Combine sugar, maple syrup, a little corn syrup and a splash of cold water.

Set out the closers: unsalted butter, a little white vinegar or lemon juice, a little salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove.

Whisk the sugar mixture over medium-high heat until it boils; watch it, as it can boil over quickly. Reduce to medium.

Cook, stirring occasionally, to 245F; meanwhile keep the cream mixture on low so it is very warm to hot. Double-check the thermometer.

At 245F, whisk in the warm cream mixture slowly at first, then all of it, until mixed.

Bring back to the boil on medium, watching it does not bubble over, then cook, whisking occasionally, to 240 to 245F, when it thickens visibly.

Turn off the heat and whisk in the butter, salt, spices and vinegar or lemon juice until the butter disappears.

Pour into the prepared dish very slowly at first so the seeds are not displaced, a little quicker once there is about a half inch in; tap on a towel to bring up air bubbles.

Cool about 10 minutes, then sprinkle generously with large crystal sea salt.

Cool to room temperature, wrap and chill in the fridge until firm. If it sticks, warm the bottom of the dish in a hot pan of water for a few seconds.

Lift out, peel off the parchment, and cut with a knife into about one-inch squares: halve, quarter, then strips and squares.