Same-day Neapolitan pizza dough, 70% hydration

Pour the 700 ml of cold tap water into the mixer.

Add about two handfuls of flour, then the salt and the yeast together, and start mixing. The flour goes in first so the yeast has food and the salt cannot affect it.

When it looks watery, add about half the remaining flour and mix, then add the rest a little at a time without rushing.

Aim for a dough temperature between 23 and 26 degrees Celsius; this one finished at 25.

The dough is ready when it bounces back after you press it with a finger.

Spread super fine semolina over the pizza tray so the balls do not stick, or oil each airtight container instead.

Weigh the dough into balls of between 250 and 270 grams.

Shape each ball by folding in repeatedly and closing the bottom, keeping your hands clean so the dough does not stick to them, and set it on the semolina.

Scrape or flour the bench if it goes sticky.

Store the balls at room temperature, not the fridge, for a minimum of three hours; four, five, six or seven is still fine. Or refrigerate up to a week and take them out four hours before making pizza.

Cover the risen ball in fine semolina top and bottom, then press from the middle out towards the edges, slowly, without pressing the edges themselves, to build a puffed rim.

Stretch on a marble or timber bench, either with the Neapolitan stretch or by turning the dough and letting gravity do the work, which a 70% hydration dough will do by itself.

Move it onto a lightly semolina-dusted timber peel, closing any small hole gently, rough side up.

Top quickly, or the sauce presses through the base and it sticks to the peel: hand-crushed peeled tomatoes salted and nothing else, basil, pecorino, salami, the buttered mushrooms, the crispy guanciale and its fat, and the drained mozzarella last.

Bake at 400 degrees Celsius for 90 seconds -- 30 seconds on the first side, then turn with the peel and give each further side about 15 seconds, finishing the edges without touching the base. At 320 to 350 degrees Celsius it takes longer and is safer.

Cut with scissors rather than a wheel so the rim is not crushed.