Sanduo

Cut the pork into a fine dice, then mince by hand with a heavy knife, folding the meat over itself and repeating; about seven or eight minutes single knife, about five minutes double knife.

Give the mince a couple of slices in each direction to break up stray long fibres.

Marinate the pork with the salt, Sichuan peppercorn powder, white pepper powder, five spice powder, soy sauce and liangjiu and mix well.

Dice 100 grams of fresh chili in total, plus the bird's eye chilies if using.

For the red version, swirl the oil in a wok, add the marinated pork over a medium low flame and break it up, then raise to medium high and fry about five minutes until lightly browned and the lard has rendered; remove and drain.

Keep about three tablespoons of oil, then over a high flame stir fry the diced tomatoes about one minute until they start to release water.

Add the ginger and the hot chilies, fry 30 seconds, return the pork and fry 30 seconds, then swirl in the baijiu.

Add the medium chilies, fry 30 seconds until fragrant, swirl in the soy sauce and season with salt, sugar and MSG.

Optionally swirl in the water for a saucier result, combine and turn out.

Black version: rinse the datoucai, chop it into a fine dice and blanch about 30 seconds in boiling water.

Fry the datoucai about one minute in the same three tablespoons of oil over a high flame, then ginger and hot chilies 30 seconds, the pork 30 seconds, a tablespoon of baijiu, the mild chilies 30 seconds, half a tablespoon of soy sauce, then the on-screen seasoning.

White version: marinate and pre-fry the pork the same way, optionally without the soy sauce for a whiter result.

Fry the diced salted eggs in three tablespoons of oil over a high flame about 30 seconds until the yolks begin to emulsify with the oil, then ginger and hot chilies, the pork, a tablespoon of baijiu, the medium chilies for 30 seconds, half a tablespoon of soy sauce and the on-screen seasoning.