Saute potatoes with onion, raw ham and mushrooms

Take the potatoes out of the water and dry them completely -- they must not be wet at all before they go in the pan.

Heat the carbon steel saute pan on high on a large burner and melt one to two tablespoons of duck fat in it.

Swirl the fat so the sides of the pan are coated as well as the base, then pour half of it off and keep it back.

Add the dried potatoes to the very hot pan.

Toss by swirling the pan by hand rather than stirring with a spoon, so nothing breaks up.

Season with salt and toss.

Brown on high heat for 10 to 12 minutes, shaking from time to time.

Add the raw ham and the onion once the colour is there, and keep swirling.

A minute or two later add the oyster mushrooms in small pieces with a little black pepper.

Raw potatoes need around 30 to 40 minutes in total whatever the method, so count the first 15 minutes as the colouring stage.

Lower the heat, cover partly, and cook 20 minutes more, tossing occasionally. If the onion browns too fast drop the heat; if nothing browns raise it.

Meanwhile press the garlic clove, add a little olive oil, and pluck and rough-chop the parsley at the last minute.

Test with the point of a small knife: it should go in effortlessly.

Only when you are ready to serve, raise the heat to medium-high, add the garlic and parsley and give it one final saute until it sizzles and smokes, then plate.