Scrambled eggs, a control recipe tested against many mix-ins and techniques

Whisk three eggs with about half a teaspoon of salt, only for as long as it takes to whisk it in.

Melt a tablespoon of unsalted butter in a pan over medium heat until it is melted and slightly about to bubble.

Pour in the eggs and move them not too much and not too little, enough to form medium sized curds.

Pull the eggs when they are 80 to 90 percent done and almost fully cooked, since residual heat finishes them.

Variation: three tablespoons of whole milk into two or three eggs with salt, cooked in barely frothing butter at medium, pulled at 80 to 90 percent.

Variation: water in place of milk, beaten in with the eggs and cooked the same way.

Variation: one extra egg yolk mixed in, cooked over medium in frothy butter.

Variation: three tablespoons of heavy cream into three eggs, same seasoning and cooking.

Variation: three tablespoons of cubed softened cream cheese into the eggs, the chunks melting in the pan during cooking.

Variation: whisk the eggs with no salt, pour into the frothy butter and sprinkle the salt in the pan instead. More curds, more bounce.

Variation: three tablespoons of whole milk whole fat ricotta mixed in and cooked to the same doneness.

Variation: two tablespoons of Kewpie mayo mixed in.

Variation: two tablespoons of cottage cheese mixed in.

Variation: two tablespoons of ranch dressing mixed in.

Variation: mix a tablespoon of water with a tablespoon of cornstarch into a slurry, stir it into the eggs and cook.

Variation, bain-marie: set a steel mixing bowl over a pot of simmering water, add the three eggs, the butter and the salt to the cold bowl and cook slowly, stirring the whole time. Takes about three times as long.

Variation, very high heat: heat the butter almost to smoking, add the eggs and move them constantly so the curds set fast into wide ribbons and curtains, pulling them very quickly.

Variation, Kenji's method: beat three eggs with the salt and let them sit 10 minutes before cooking. Softer, more tender, creamier without adding cream.

Variation: crack the eggs directly into the pan so the whites start to set, add the salt, then marbleize by poking and mixing.

Variation: a tablespoon of neutral oil instead of butter, heated at medium.

Variation, cold start: eggs and cold butter into a cold pan, heat brought up slowly, stirring the whole time.

Variation, microwave: eggs, butter and salt in a bowl, cooked by eye and pulled with about a 20 percent puddle of uncooked egg in the middle, then mixed so residual heat finishes it.

Variation, cheese eggs: shredded cheese straight into the eggs, melting into them as the pan heats.

Variation, bacon eggs: chop bacon, cook it crispy, drain most of the grease and cook the eggs in the remaining grease with the bacon, turning the heat off the moment the eggs touch the pan.

Variation, Gordon Ramsay's method: three eggs and two tablespoons of butter into a large saucepan off the heat, whisked to break the eggs up, then on and off a medium high heat in 10 to 15 second bursts, whisking constantly so no large curds form. Cool with a spoonful of creme fraiche, salt at the end, and serve over toast with chives.

Variation, Marco Pierre White's method: a pat of butter and three eggs into the pan off the heat, then cooked over a very low heat, whisking the whole time, with no salt at the start. Finish with salt, a splash of heavy cream and pepper.

Serve Marco's eggs on buttered toast, topped with an entire poached egg, smoked salmon, chives and a little melted butter or olive oil.