Seafood risotto

Shell and devein the shrimp; keep the shells.

Rough chop the onion, parsley stems, carrots and celery.

Cut the legs off the octopus; cut the squid tubes into rings.

Heat three tablespoons of oil in a large pan and toast the shrimp and lobster shells until they turn bright orange.

Add the octopus tentacles and head, cook two minutes with the shells.

Pour in the water, add the vegetables, bay leaves and peppercorns; no salt yet.

Bring to a small simmer and cook about an hour.

Take out the octopus legs and strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve.

Finely chop the yellow onion and shallot.

Heat the fat in a high-walled saucepan over medium heat; add the onions and shallots with a little salt.

Sweat until translucent, three to four minutes.

Add the arborio rice and toast two to three minutes until the exterior of each grain turns translucent.

Deglaze with the white wine and stir until absorbed.

Add the stock about a quarter cup at a time, stirring constantly and letting each addition absorb before the next.

With about a quarter cup of stock left, add the shrimp, squid and octopus.

Turn off the heat, stir in the cold butter and chopped parsley, season to taste and plate.

Variation: fry leftover shallots, onions and rice in butter, cook the same way with fish stock, and fold in two generous handfuls of parmesan at the end.